Africa in Bloom

Africa’s Green Season, November through April, is a heavily discussed topic in the world of tour operators. Often times, less-than-flattering terms accompany the season such as “Low Season” or “Off Season” making it difficult to inspire travelers to go during that time. But aside from the economic need to fill camps during Southern Africa’s summer months, there are more than a few great reasons why it is an epic time of year to visit. Clive Miller of Kwando Safaris, a longtime trusted partner of Bushtracks Expeditions and host to incredible Botswana camps, was kind enough to explain why the Green Season is not an “Off Season”. In fact, it is a “High Season” in its own right:
How would you describe the green season to someone who has never experienced it?
The Green Season is when the bush is truly alive. The colors, sounds, sights and sensory overload is something seldom found anywhere else. From frolicking baby animals to the zebra migration, and from towering clouds to the majestic wildlife, this season has it all.
What is your favorite part of the green season, and why?
Watching the bush change from a parched landscape to a vibrant and verdant paradise has never ceased to amaze me. It’s almost like the land is taking a deep breath ready to unleash a kaleidoscope of color on the world. From the first continuous rains this happens within 2 weeks. Quite amazing. And if you’re haven’t smelt petrichor, that fresh, earthy smell you notice right after it rains, you are in for a treat.

How does wildlife behavior change during the green season compared to the dry season?
Where to start? The first thing one notices is a sense of expectation in the air. We all feel it, humans, animals, birds and insects. Every animal has their own birthing story, hunting strategies, feeding patterns and so on that change as the surface water increases, the grasses grow, and prey multiplies. To be honest it’s hard to generalize as every species has its own story to tell.
What are some of the most unique wildlife sightings you’ve witnessed at this time of year?
I often hear the phrase “I want to see a kill”. However, more often than not this isn’t repeated once someone has seen the grim reality of it. One if the most unique sightings and marked dichotomies of life and death I saw was at Lebala Camp in mid-December where we spotted a lioness carrying a recently deceased warthog piglet in her mouth. Such a powerful creature preying on something so small seemed really quite one-sided. That is, until we followed her to where she had hidden her young cub and we watched while she taught the little one to eat meat for the first time. So the death of one youngster was sustaining the life of the other. (At this point one is tempted to break into a rendition of the “Circle of Life”…) (Photo below)

How does the lush landscape impact game drives and photography opportunities?
This is one of the best times of year for photography fans. The light is quite extraordinary, especially in the late afternoon. The birding is exemplary and the riot of colors in the bush are quite something to behold. There is a myth (explored in more detail below), that high grasses mean you won’t see anything. It really is just that though – a myth. We operate mostly in large unfenced private concessions and animals make their way across the vast landscape throughout the year so there is always something to see and learn.
What surprises guests the most when they visit during the green season?
That there are plenty of animals to see. I’ve seen, heard and read so much about how everything mysteriously vanishes, hides, runs away and generally becomes invisible. While the rains, grasses and vegetation allow additional animal movement and places to hide up, the animals are very much present. The best wild dog sighting I ever had was just before a storm in January for example. At Kwando we are custodians of hundreds of thousands of acres of private concessions (a private concession in Africa is a section of land leased by safari operators from the government or communities, where they can offer exclusive, low-impact wildlife experiences) and to that extent perhaps we do exist in a partial and very fortunate microcosm. Our concessions range from arid savannah to delta waterways and from open grasslands to vast forests. There is always something to see and share. Predators for example will often stick to the roadways when moving about. Would you rather walk down a nice sandy road, or walk into some tall grass (where anything with teeth, horns etc could be hiding) while covering the soles of your feet in devil thorns? Besides, we have incredible trackers for locating those animals that prefer to stick to the thicker vegetation.
What special experiences or activities are particularly great in the green season?
As previously mentioned, this is the time of year for photographers. Birders know this season as a must and we recently perfected a technique with a professional photographer friend of ours to drive beside Southern Carmine Bee-eaters at Lagoon Camp and photograph them on the wing as they nab insects kicked up by the game drive vehicle. Seeing the baby animals for the first time is a joy that is hard to beat although the predators changing their strategies to hunt them provides a darker side to the bush. The explosion of plant life is also fascinating with tales of the everyday and medicinal uses providing a reminder of the human relationship with nature.
How do the afternoon rains impact a typical safari day? Do they ever enhance the experience?
For the most part the rains come in short, sharp bursts (1-2 hours) in the late afternoon and as such, if you are feeling adventurous, you don a poncho and head out into the rain. That said, a prolific Botswana thunderstorm is almost movie-like and I am a fan of sitting back at the lodge and enjoying the sound and light show with a Gin & Tonic. If it happens at night, it is like being in the front row inside an unfeasibly big IMAX theatre with the most impressive surround sound you have ever heard. The rain also brings with it the promise of new life and there is rarely that kind of contrast in more temperate climates.

What are the advantages of visiting during the green season in terms of crowd levels and overall value?
We operate in such remote areas and, for the most part, in large private concessions. As such we don’t really have crowds at any time of year. That said, the camps and lodges are often a bit quieter during the green season so if you like a little extra space and serenity, you can’t beat the green season. This lower demand leads to better pricing – it’s a function of demand and supply. In terms of value, it is by far and away the best time of year. While the animals do have the opportunity to disperse (as previously noted) you will still most likely have the opportunity see much of what you are looking for and you save over 50% of the cost. The days are also longer so we get more daylight game viewing hours every day. On top of that you have all the green season advantages that you won’t get in the so called “high season”. In the green season you can, and I say it without any hesitation, get the best value for money of any time of the year. The proof is however in the proverbial pudding, and we post our sightings reports every month on our website and share guest photos on social media. (If I had my way, we would charge more for the green season than any other time of year. It’s just awesome.)
If you could convince someone to book a green season safari in just one sentence, what would you say?
Close your eyes and think of Africa; imagine the sights, sounds, colors and smells – this is the life of Green Season.
Explore our sample itinerary (note: there are a selection of other camps to which the special rates can be applied).